Chanel, Now and Then
Yesterday around 5:30 p.m., I popped in to see Karl Lagerfeld. The studio was moderately crowded: one or two editors parked at one end of Mr. Lagerfeld’s big desk and several Chanel executives at the other. Models—Freja, Snejana and a new young woman who announced that she was from Omaha, Nebraska—were in the second room getting organized for their fittings. The mood of the collection, which will be presented tonight around sunset in the Grand Palais, is somber and romantic, with black lace and gold, and short hemlines with a long panel sometimes at the back. Long, according to Mr. Lagerfeld, looks old.
昨天下午5点半,我突然看见Karl Lagerfeld。整个工作室里挤满了人，一两个编辑倚靠在见Karl Lagerfeld大书桌的一端，而Chanel的高层们在桌子的另一边。模特Freja、Snejana以及一个来自Nebraska洲Omaha的年轻女郎在第二间房间里整理东西。整场秀将在今晚日落时分的巴黎大皇宫发布。据Karl Lagerfeld透露，阴郁而浪漫的风情，金色与黑色的蕾丝，精心镶嵌的裙摆也许将会再次出现，此时的Karl Lagerfeld，多少显得有些苍老。
There may be a recession but the last place on earth you’d notice it is at Chanel. “We make a lot of money,” said Mr. Lagerfeld, squinting behind his dark glasses, as if this fact were as plain as the Eiffel Tower. He is sometimes in a mood to talk about Coco Chanel, whose life and capacity for survival never seem to bore him, and last night was such a time. He recently published (with Steidl) a book of photographs by Douglas Kirkland called “Mademoiselle: Coco Chanel Summer 62.” In his text, he observes how Kirkland’s pictures in the house and on the Rue Cambon remove “from her image all its evils and the bitchy side popular imagination has attached to her persona.” The summer of 62 was, in a way, he wrote, “her last summer as the queen of fashion. Jeans and miniskirts were on their way to invade the world. Hating them and letting people know publicly how much she loathed the fashions to come she put herself instantly in the position of the has-been oracle of style and fashion.” He says 40,000 copies of the book have been sold.
虽然面临全球经济衰退，但你依然能看到生生不息的Chanel，“我们依然非常赚钱，”Karl Lagerfeld坚定地说，他犀利的目光从墨镜后透射出来，好像这个事实就像埃菲尔铁塔一样不可动摇。在谈到关于Chanel的问题时，Karl Lagerfeld是带有自己强烈的感情的，他的整个生命与能力从来都未曾困扰过他，昨晚的此时他还在工作。他最近根据Douglas Kirkland的摄影集《法国小姐：Coco Chanel62岁的夏天》出版了一本新书，在书中，Karl Lagerfeld仔细研究了保留在康朋街Coco Chanel旧居里的Kirkland作品，客观地展现了时髦外表下Coco Chanel本人的刻薄、风流。在这本书中，Karl Lagerfeld写到：“在这位时尚女王的生命中的最后一个夏天，牛仔裤与超短裙席卷全球，Coco Chanel讨厌这些东西，而这也使得这位曾经创造的流行与时尚的女王在那个时代遭到了前所未有的冷遇。”据Karl Lagerfeld称，这本书已经发售了4万册。
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
A piece from the Chanel haute couture collection in Paris.I asked Mr. Lagerfeld about the new collection, about staying current, and about those blog reports that he would leave Chanel and be replaced by Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. Mr. Lagerfeld said to forget about it. He was going to die with his boots on. He also mentioned that Alain Wertheimer, whose family owns Chanel, said he would sell the house when the designer leaves. This might not be the case, Mr. Lagerfeld said, but it was a nice thing to be told.
我就Chanel 09-10秋冬高级定制的趋势，以及一些Blog作者爆料他将离开Chanel，并由Lanvin的设计师Alber Elbaz接任的传闻采访了Karl Lagerfeld，他说，请忘记这些传闻吧，他将为Chanel工作到生命的尽头，他也提到了Chanel的持有人Alain Wertheimer家族将在设计师离开之后卖掉Chanel。也许这种情况并不会真的发生，但Karl Lagerfeld说这未必不是一件好事。